Un mois sur la Cote d' Azur

Photos:
Bay at night, Rue Obscura, Bay by day, Villefranche main street,
Villefranche-sur-mer from above,
Jean Cocteau Chapel, my class and teacher Intermediate II, antiques market, my school- the Institute De Francais.












































































































Villefranch-sur-mer. Please go someday. It isn't full of casinos or fancy shops. The parking spots aren't filled with luxury cars driven by the fur-clad and fabulous. The bars are slightly dingy, and there are no world famous art works. But its full of life, the stuff the riviera WAS made of before all of those rich and famous people decided to camp out in mansions on the southern coast of France. Oh sure, there are rich people around. Yachts, Feraris and summer homes have also found refuge in the quiet bay fed by the Mediterranian sea, but the only flashing lights you'll see in town come from the green cross of the pharmacy, traffic signals, and igniting lighters in the hands of smokers sitting outside a restaurant.
I found a peaceful place to walk, to eat, to learn french in Villefranch-sur-mer. My school, L' institute de Francais (http://www.institutdefrancais.com) was incredible. Yes, I was there for 8hrs a day, 40 hrs a week, and it felt like a job sometimes. But a job that paid as well as any I'd ever held- I earned a new language. I can understand quite a lot of French now, and my speaking is much better. So much better, in fact, that on the last day of school I was given a certificate of honerable mention :)
I don't know how else to put this incredible month in words, so, in true SMB form, I will leave you to the pictures to get a sense of why Villefranch won my heart. In time I will add more shots from other places on the Riviera and also around Avignon that I visited while living down south.

Scandinavia (Oct 16-20, 2008)

Paris -> København
Thursday, October 16th, 4:20am
Alarm. Alarm. Alarm. Oy vey. Breakfast, luggage in the dark, bus in the dark, plane, sunrise. Copenhagen International Airport, 9am.

I got my luggage into a locker, and strut out of the station with no map (1st mistake). I found the main street downtown, a pedestrian only street lined with stores and cafes. I found an AMAZING outdoor photography exhibit and took my sweet time admiring the portraits. Then, still enamored of my stroll through gorgeous architecture sans-smog, I found a round building with a line outside... curiosity got the best of me and I found a sign in English (HUZZAH!) informing me I was standing in front of the oldest observatory in Europe. So I joined the line. The tower offered beautiful views of the city below, the water, and Sweden, my destination that evening.















So after I walked down the tower, I found a friendly newsie and asked him how to get to the Little Mermaid statue. He showed me on a huge map in the square. I started the looong walk, a visual memory of the map was all I had, that and the luck that every Dane speaks incredible English. I passed through Nyhavn, the colorful harbour (1st image of this blog). There were lots of restaurants with outdoor heaters and blankets- perfect for eating outside in the cold. But I kept walking towards the Mermaid (2nd mistake!!). By the time I got to The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue) I was so friggin hungry I was out of it. I took the obligatory photo, the necessary sit on a bench, and headed back to Nyhavn for a Smørrebrød, Open face sandwich. Yum. I got a chicken sandwich. I was so hungry at that point, the adventurous side of me which would have tried the eel or the herring was long gone.


København -> Helsingør -> Helsingborg, Skåne, Sverige


I arrived in Helsingborg (in the Scania provence) Sweden around 5ish and was greeted by the beautiful Jessica and her amazing 5-year-old son Tyler. (Backround... Jessica and I met in Gaeta, Italia in 2000ish. We lived 2 hours from eachother when I was in Rome but visited occasionally and became friends. Totally randomly, Jessica was an Au Pair in Great Falls, VA the same time that I moved back to Annandale to go to GMU. It was a happy surprise to us both!)

So, now, sitting at Jessica's kitchen table, while she made dinner and Tyler drew pictures, we realized we hadn't seen eachother in 5 or 6 years. I was exhausted, up since 4:20 and hauling my hungry ass all over Copenhagen, but I craved their company (and the smells from her stove).

Jessica went to work on Friday and I met her there, at the Dunkers Kulturhus, a great building filled with arts and history exhibits (several of both at the moment!!) Both Friday and Saturday nights Jessica, Tyler and I went to Jessica's friends' houses. I got to meet amazing people!! It was so cool to visit Sweden and get an extremly local experience! No tourists, no traps, just Sweden! I loved it.



Tyler and leaves /
the church had a viiking ship in it, of course :) / old buildings, now an Italian restaurant

























Helsingborg -> Helsingør -> København -> Malmö


October 20: My flight to Paris is at 18h30. That, to me, was a whole free day (if I woke up before the sun) to see more of Sweden, so I chose Malmo (arriving in a round about way, I admit, but it makes sense to me!) This photo is the sun rising over Helsingborg.
Malmo was a really nice city, bigger and more modern Helsingborg, but I missed the traditional charm. This time I got a map in the train station (woohoo!) and hit the road. I saw two museums, both incredible! The first Malmöhus, once a Castle, now the Malmo Museum... modern art and history. My favorite wasKommendanthuset, showing photography of Elisabeth Ohlson Wallin Very good, very... racy. She focuses on sexual minorities and brings Jesus into the picture (A reminder for all: Jesus was helping outcasts!!)

I took a great stop in an organic garden where I sipped on organic tea and munched on an organic cinnamon roll. MMM. I also got a good view of the famous building to the left here... The Turning Torso! My tea bag said "we are spiritual beings having a human experience", it was wonderful to sit with this phrase.

The last stop on my Scandinavian adventure, lunch in the well known and beautiful square built in 1590, Lilla Torg.

Here are some cool buildings in Malmo.... Go to Scandinavia!!!

Bourgogne (BURGUNDY) Oct 11-13, 2008

Five of us (Mom, Dad, friends Bonni and Matthew, and me- shown above in the doorway of the church at the Abbaye De Fontenay) piled into our Toyota on Saturday morning and began our weekend away - off to Bourgogne. We watched the artful architecture of Paris fade into large concrete symbols of industry, to rural homes and agricultural operations, and then "nothing". Of course "nothing" was EVERYTHING we were after. Fields resting for winter, grazing cows, rows and rows of trees in their autum garb, miles of perfectly pruned vineyards, quaint towns you missed if you blinked (or fell asleep, which is my favorite car trip activity).

We stayed in Chablis, yes, as in the wine. We rented a house for the weekend, and the proprietors invited us for a drink of their own family's Chablis. The town itself was small but gorgeous, lots of good food, and we met incredibly nice people... must be the sunshine and good wine.
Our group began talking about scrambling into the hills and exploring the vineyards as soon as we saw our first, so finally, on our last night we did... I got some amazing shots of a nearly full moon lighting the turning leaves on the vines. All of fruit had been plucked to meet its wine-maker, so no samples for us! The image below is the river that flows through Chablis, it was right across the street from the home we rented. Sigh, what a weekend :)



We visited the Abbaye de Vezelay and the towns Auxerre, Avalon, and Joigny. Here are a few more shots I like.

Avalon (side of church with dahlias)
Joigny


Avalon (look for the horse!)















Auxerre

Spirit, -ed, -s

The title of this blog is the one word that can describe best to you what I have been up to since I last was in touch. Wow. I am really truly alive here, even on the days when I sit at home and do menial online tasks related to my art (which I have been doing plenty).
Mom's friend Rosalie from DC recommended that we go to see a teacher from the Bön tradition who was visiting Paris. It was a 2-day retreat that I attended (a tad reluctantly) on day one. During our lunch break (R) on the 1st day, where we ate at a very gorgeous restaurant near a park (above), we talked about the teachings and I was the only Berry who planned to attend the 2nd day. Ha.


Both days I listened to talks about transcending negative states of mind, achieving a natural state in the moment, and other things that sounded familiar, and truer than anything I'd heard someone on a stage talk about in a long time. I connected deeply with the teachings and the people in the room. I made friends with a group of people from Mexico, and a man from California named Michael. After the retreat was over Michael, Carlos from Mexico, and I went out for SPIRITS.

Carlos has an awesome friend (Tania) who moved to Paris and is engaged to a very cool guy, Tim. Although my friends Michael and Carlos have left Paris to continue their journeys, Tanya and Tim are here, and my new friends. So lucky to have met them!
So I took a trip by myself to Marais, a Jewish neighborhood yesterday. I wandered the streets and so many doors opened for me. First, I found a beautiful bead shop. I have all my beading stuff with me, and finding a store was on my "todo list". I met an American woman in there and she gave me her list (printed in English, woohoo!) of all the bead shops in Paris. Thanks!

I found the main street where the Jews hang out. Falafel, Kosher pizza, Deli, and upscale Kosher restaurants... and a Bakery that I will certainly visit again, wonderful Challah and the BEST APPLE/ POPPY STRUDEL EVER! mmm. Walking around somewhere with so many familiar traditions and cuisines was really fulfilling, special, and fed my inner-Jewish-mother-spirit.
The men in black suits and kippot on the street are ready for Sukkot, its not even Yom Kippur... they were already selling lulavs and etrogs from Israel. They didn't look to pleased to have their pictures taken... I think a Jewish woman in pants who attends Buddhist retreats doesn't quite fit the profile "one of us", which honestly is something I struggle with sometimes. I don't usually feel the need to fit in a box, but do not like the idea of belonging to a tribe where I'm inextricable to "outsiders" and barely pass to some "insiders". Oh well. I like being all over the place spiritually.
Here are some more pictures from Marais (pronounced Mar-ay) where I found beautiful gardens, art galleries, and pieces of myself. I also found very friendly people, including a cool girl my age who was working in a shop where I bought a neat bracelet (it used to be a fork). We exchanged #s and she invited me to go dancing... my 1st Parisienne friend :)













I stumbled into a photo gallery in Marais, I went into many galleries, but this one really resonated with me. I got the email address of the gallery manager, I may show here sooner than I thought! YELLOW KORNER.

Think big for me and yourselves. For those of you fasting on Yom Kippur, may it be an easy fast.

Lots of love!
SMB

Apples and Honey in St. Germain en Laye

This morning we took the RER (train) 11 miles outside Paris to a gorgeous suburb, the title of this blog and past home to several of the King Louis and symbolist artist Maurice Denis. Dad and I went straight to Rosh Hashanah services (day 2). It was a short service, mostly familiar, and ended with a drink of Kosher wine that didn't taste like cough syrup. Eat your heart out, Manischewitz, we're in FRANCE now. The real reason we went to a second day of services was just to check out this town.
Even in the rain it was a jewel. A short stroll from the office (literally) where service was held delivered us to a tall iron gate, the once home and studio of Maurice Denis. I stepped in and said to my dad "we're home!" What an amazing estate. We looked at Denis' art (pictured here) for free because one of the rooms was closed. Eden came to mind as I strolled perfectly landscaped plots of roses, black-eyed-susans, and echinacea. There were apples, persimmons, eggplant, rosemary, figs, and broccoli plants. Nurturing both aesthetically and gastronomically, though we didn't take any samples.
I also had my first Ikebana (Japanese flower arranging) lesson ever tonight. Mom's teacher is in town from Japan so I tagged along. AMAZING time. I made two arrangements- one very strict and traditional, the other free-style. The teacher said it was obvious I was the daughter of Berry-san. Hehe.
I certainly miss my friends and other things from home, especially after my 1st run to the grocery store- no refried beans, no peanut butter, no hair conditioner. I eventually found conditioner and I mashed my own beans. I did find peanut butter too, and I am ashamed to report how much I paid for it. If you feel generous, please do send me some peanut butter. I like the natural kind, creamy, s'il vous plait.

That's all for now, going to bed early is a must while they continue construction on the apartment below ours. At least I can't loaf around in bed all morning. Up and art at 8am.

Sushi, Shawarma, and Saris

Today I woke up to the sound of power tools. The apartment below us has been undergoing renovations for almost 6 months I'm told. I pray that means its almost ready. I did some work on the computer, had a leisurely breakfast with my dad (who works from home when he's here) and then walked. and walked. and walked. I coaxed dad outdoors with me with the ominous weather forcast for the days ahead. Today was sunny and gorgeous and we walked A LOT. And saw nothing of note to anyone who comes to Paris to see what they've seen on postcards. Anyone who knows my dad knows that he and I both share a taste for adventures of the unusual sort... we went to (in his words) the funky part of town. man, was it ever! african, asian, and arab immigrants. sushi, shawarma, and saris. it was wild. and sometimes a bit sketchy... i didn't take as many pictures as i would have liked to because i noticed my camera getting quite a bit of attention. it made me long for gordon, my loving bodyguard... and apparently cameraguard? dad and i stopped for some turkish dinner near a beautiful canal. nothing fancy (not sure anything fancy would thrive in that area) but super tasty kabob.

Art for Everyone

Yesterday my mom and I walked an open house of art studios. The neighborhood organizes this event annually, and its awesome for people to be able to stroll (with a map in hands) all of the workshops. Art was for sale and it was great to see these artists thriving. A fitting first-day activity. We skipped the parks, because after the workshop-walk we were totally pooped... especially me with the jet-lag. And when us girls got back to the apartment, my father was there, and so was my LUGGAGE! I unpacked right away, trying to give my room a lived-in feel immediately.

L'Shana Tova

Although I knew WHEN I was booked to arrive in Paris, I never really stopped to think about when I was really going to start my adventure here... I am starting a New Year in a new city. Both the anticipation of welcoming a new year and the excitement of discovering a new city manifest those "fresh start" feelings and give room for self reflection. I feel very fortunate to have the two milestones meet. I will be attending services tomorrow morning at my new synagogue here in Paris. The Rabbi is from Oregon and conducts services in English, French, and Hebrew.

I wish you all the best for a healthy and happy new year. Buy some local apples and honey (tis the season, no coincidence there!) and take a dip.

Have a sweet year!

How to spend 6 months in Paris...

I have a return ticket for March 31.

Between now and then I will be working. Not in the conventional 9-5, uncomfortable shoes, paycheck to paycheck sense (although a paycheck would be nice!). I am an artist. I have NEVER spent more than several stressful hours putting together art for an assignment at school or to show at Artomatic. I have been teaching it, taking it in, and doing it for other people for too long.

I want to spend time on this thing brewing in me. I want to show myself what exactly it is, and eventually show you. I have my camera with me. And my intrinsic creativity. And now, finally, the missing piece- TIME. Oh, and it doesn't hurt that my mother's job posted her to Paris 3 years ago and she has a spare room.
Aside from clicking the Canon, I will be building a new website, painting, and working with new materials. It won't be a vacation, I can assure you.

I will also be moving south for a month to Villefranche, a small town near Nice, for a French immersion program. Although this may prove to be an "aversion program" from my art, I figure, WHY NOT. It will help me. Another notch on my language belt. I'll be there pretty much the month of November. Other travel plans include the UK, Spain, Sweden and Denmark. And weekends with my parents around France.

The big deal in the "real world" is that I will be submitting applications to several graduate programs in Arts Management/ Arts Administration. I don't feel like talking about it right now, considering I don't know where I will be accepted, and where I'll choose to attend. I'll let you know when it's nigh (Fall 2009).

I plan to explore far from the beaten path, but of course the highlights of Paris will be well toured, photographed, and loved during my sojourn.

Stay tuned...
SMB